Monday 30 June 2014

Surf 'n' Turf

Love of good food is one of the things that Mr Owl and I have in common, and while in Oban we had to try out a few of the amazing local restaurants, in particular we were thinking of the seafood. So one evening we headed down to the Waterfront Fishouse. Admittedly from the outside, tucked away down an alley by the ferry terminal, you're not sure what to expect, but once upstairs the restaurant is beautifully decorated and has a fantastic view out across the port! If you can get a window seat then I recommend it.
We started off well, with both of us deciding to have oysters, provided freshly from the Caledonian Oyster Company. We went for a mix with 3 classic oysters with lemon and tabasco and 3 grilled with balsamic and honey pig cheeks. I still prefer the classic raw oyster with lemon and a tiny splash of tabasco but the grilled ones were also lovely, so good in fact that I forgot to take a photo until after the fact!

 
 
 
 
However our fishy resolve fell apart when it came to the main course. How could we resist a dish called the 'Black and Blue Murder Burger'?  The description from the menu is "Argyll wild venison burger on a brioche bun with cabbage slaw and topped with black pudding and melting blue murder cheese served with fishouse fries and bacon jam." We both caved in and ordered one of these.
 
 


 
They tasted amazing but were incredibly filling, meaning we were forced to share the chocolate and salted caramel tart to finish, although we did manage a Gaelic coffee too! If you are going to be in Oban then I would highly recommend this restaurant, they had a really good choice of food and it doesn't get better than watching the sun set while enjoying a great meal.



Wednesday 25 June 2014

Scotland: Seafari

A friend had partly suggested Oban because of the many things we could do e.g. going out to view wildlife and then she mentioned the whirlpool! As a big Enid Blyton fan growing up I had read the Rubadub Mystery so the thought of an actual whirlpool won me over. A quick google later and we had found Seafari, based out of Easdale just down the road (in Scottish terms) from Oban, so we booked ourselves onto the Corryvrecken Wildlife tour on the Tuesday afternoon. You go out on an open Rigid hulled Inflatable Boat (RIB) and they provide all waterproofs! I had prepared myself for a cold wet day with no sightings at all, but we were in luck. The sun was shining and it was lovely and warm. However this made getting into our extra layers and waterproofs a slightly more hot and awkward experience!




All kitted up we climbed into the boat and set off. Once out of the harbour our driver Steve showed us just what the RIB could do- I would go back and pay again just to be driven around on that boat (or even better to be able to drive it)- but if you don't like flying over the waves at high speed while hanging onto the chair in front then maybe this isn't the trip for you. The trip runs out from Easdale and then down and around the island of Scarba and back up again. The wildlife you see will depend largely on luck but can include dolphines, whales, porpoise, otters, basking sharks and a whole host of birds. The sun was shining (literally) on us. We started off with seals, both common and grey basking on the rocks. We then headed down to a Sea Eagle nest only to find that the chick was sat up in it, this was then topped by a sighting of an otter, which is not that common. He wasn't that close to the boat but we could watch him with the binoculars as he dove and floated on his back. Scarba itself has a large deer population which obliged us by standing around on the hills and posing dramatically against the skyline in an almost cliched pose! When a large bird was spotted circling above I thought the suggestion of 'Golden Eagle' was a joke, but no it really was! We watched it circling above the hill and when it dived you could see the beautiful plumage that give it its name. The wildlife was finished off by a pod of porpoises circling around the boat! My only disappointment on the trip was that the whirlpool wasn't whirling. It is not a constant feature and depends on the tides and water levels and sadly our luck wasn't in. However after the amazing wildlife we didn't really mind, and it gives us an excuse to go back and do it all again.
If anyone is heading up to Oban then I would highly recommend this trip, the price is very reasonable for an amazing day out. Easdale itself was stunningly beautiful and I would recommend just going down there to see it. On the way back to Oban we stopped at Seil bridge to take some photos and just admire the view which was worth the trip in itself!











Wednesday 18 June 2014

Scotland: Oban

After our time in Glasgow we were swapping the city for the coast and spending the rest of the week in Oban. The drive up to Oban from Glasgow is lovely in itself, right along the shores of Loch Lomond. We had picked up some sarnies in advance and stopped for an 'in car picnic' overlooking the Loch in the sunshine - well it was warm at least!



Oban itself is a small town right on the coast and styles itself as the Seafood Capital of Scotland, which admittedly was one of our main motivations for choosing it. I had been struggling to find any accommodation at short notice until the lovely people at Glenburnie Hotel said that they had a self catering apartment available for a very reasonable price. It even had off road parking which pleased Mr Owl! Admittedly the outside of the block was nothing special, but once inside the flat was lovely. All newly redecorated with a modern kitchen and bathroom, large lounge, diner and double bedroom tucked away quietly on the back. Undoubtedly the best feature was the bay window looking out over the harbour, where we could watch the ferries coming and going as the sun set.  Having unpacked we headed out to explore Oban and collect some fish and chips (scampi for me) for tea. At some point we started the tradition of having a bottle of something bubbly at the start of our holidays or weekends away, and unsurprisingly it goes with everything, including the fish and chips! A great start to our stay in Oban.



Monday 16 June 2014

Scotland: Glasgow Part II

Our full day in Glasgow was a Sunday and we were up with our fast broken a good hour or so before anywhere opened. We had planned to start the day taking the subway to Kelvingrove Museum, but a quick google maps consultation suggested we should be able to walk out to it taking in a few more sights along the way- so comfy shoes on we set off. We headed along Sauchiehall Street (Sock-e-hall) past the remains of the Glasgow School of Art. Sadly the air around it still smelt burnt and it was largely cordoned off. I would love to have seen it whole as it looked like a beautiful building. We were amazed how many impressive buildings and churches we saw just on our stroll out and the striking difference between the tenements of Glasgow and the little terraces of Manchester.

We got to Kelvingrove just as the drizzle started so were pleased to take cover inside. Lots of the reviews I had read said it was worth visiting just for the building itself and they weren't wrong. The exterior is pure victorian gothic with towers and sweeping entrance stairs while main hall that you come into was beautiful and imposing. The main hall was similar to the National History Museum in London, but with no dinosaurs in the way so you could really appreciate its size and design.




However not only did the museum look good, but it contained a wide variety of displays, varying from natural history, weaponry and local history through to modern art. Their most famous exhibit (apart from Sir Roger the stuffed elephant) is a Salvador Dali of Christ on the Cross. It is a beautiful painting and also quite eerie.

After Kelvingrove we explored the center of Glasgow further until eventually the rain really started and we had to take refuge in the many bars and pubs. We started in the Butterfly and Pig on Bath St. This was the sister bar from the night before, though we were disappointed to find it didn't stock the same wide range of ales and beer. It had a nice atmosphere however and was a welcome escape from the rain in their large comfy sofas. We then carried on down to Vespbar. This bar was spread out over several levels and had a very retro fifties diner feel to it. The emormous pizzas that we saw going past looked amazing as well, definitely one I would come back to.







Having lined our stomachs with a quick burrito at Juan Chihuahuas we finished up at the Pot Still for a wee dram. This bar boasts over 600 whiskies and requires very agile bar staff to fish them all down from the shelves. I loved that all the pubs in Scotland had a little water tap on the bars so you can water your whisky to your own taste. I had a Singleton which was very tasty though nothing remarkable (my memory here might not be entirely reliable so apologies to any Singleton fans) and Mr Owl had a Dalmore which was very tasty. It was the perfect end to a great day in Glasgow, I just wish we had more time there, but the coast was beckoning.







Thursday 12 June 2014

Scotland: Glasgow

After the last year we decided that we really needed a break away to just chill out and distract ourselves. We weren't quite ready to venture abroad in case of any medical issues, so decided instead to head north to Scotland. My Dad's family are originally from this part of the world, but us Owls had only been up here once before, when we walked the Great Glen (Fort William- Inverness) and had since been wanting to return. Our trip started in Glasgow where we had booked 2 nights at CitizenM. This hotel had scored highly online and looked quite novel with its almost Japanese style rooms and slightly communist naming conventions- we were not disappointed!! If Ikea did hotels this is what they would look like, no space was wasted and storage was clever, meaning that despite a small room the bed was enormous taking up the entire bottom end of the room.




After checking in (e.g. jumping up and down on huge bed) we headed out into the balmy Glasgow evening. We had booked a table at No.16 in Kelvingrove due to its high online recommendations. It was just a short ride away on Glasgow's subway (3rd oldest in the world dontchaknow!) and easy to find. As we got there a little early, due to paranoia over first time subway use, we had time to pop into The Butterfly and Pig just opposite where they served a large selection of real ales! If we had known we would have allowed more time here beforehand.

On to No.16 itself, the restaurant is tiny with a few tables downstairs and a little mezzanine level above but this just makes it feel intimate rather than cramped, helped by the soft lighting and fairy lights hanging in the front. Then there is the food, oh my goodness the food! We had seen the menu online and were already excited at what they offered but it far exceeded our expectations. I would have been quite happy to just have a plate of their homemade bread and rosemary & parmesan dipping oil it was so tasty. Instead we just nibbled on it while reading the fabulous menu.






Eventually we decided on the ham hock (me) and sardines (him) to start followed by the lamb (me) and halibut (him). I am not quite sure how to describe the food, you felt like you were eating something amazingly tasty and indulgent, yet at the same time somehow light and healthy. This has to currently be in my top 3 meals of all time! The photos below don't do it justice.






All of this was made even better by the outstanding and friendly service from all the staff. I am now trying to work out how soon we can go back up to Glasgow just to eat here again. If you are going up that way then I highly recommend it. After this amazing food we were left to take the subway back to our giant bed (ok via the bar for a cheeky cocktail) and watch the sun going down over the roofes  of Glasgow!